Tuesday, April 10, 2007

be fooled not...


What you see in these pictures has nothing to do with what we Americans associate such images... (I don't even want to write it)... but here in Spain has everything to do with Semana Santa (aka Holy Week or the week between Palm Sunday and Easter).

I've had the most a-MA-sing last two weeks with two wonderful visitors from different areas of my life (Heather from the Ranch and Dara from high school in Lexington) who choque-d here in Spain which about made my head explode, but was utterly delightful. Entirely too many things happened to tell in one blog to keep interest in reading and because they've put many pictures on facebook already, I thought I might focus on one thing that didn't quite make being "tagged" to anyone in particular and as you look at these photos you might see why. (Heather managed to capture my standard reaction here.)

So... I had no idea what to expect... Semana Santa is as popular and familiar as the Super Bowl here and Spaniards were shocked that I did not know the "ins and outs" of everything. So I will do my best.

There are maybe around 50 "religious" brotherhoods that do processions from their respective starting points (perhpas a church) and carry ornate pasos (or floats)... generally one representation of Jesus and one of the Virgin Mary... and end up in the Catedral. The parade includes marching bands and hooded nazarenos that we as Americans would only relate to the KKK. They dress in pointy hoods, but come in all colors from white to black to green to purple. They range from all ages (including little children) and sometimes hand out candy and things. They swing balls on incense, carry candles, and even crosses. The parades all take different routes through the city and can last up to 12 hours. There can be as many as 9 processions happening at once. It is a sensation that appeals to every one of the five senses, but after seeing one procession I was good to go. "Got it."

The crowds were absurd. The city completely shut down around them. Soon, Beth, Dara, Heather, and I began using the "procession schedule" as a guide for telling us which routes to avoid as we wanted to traverse the centro to shop and eat rather than to learn where we could see these things. While I believe in the past the processions had been considered very sacred (people would cross themselves while passing a paso), it has definitely been transformed into a more of a cultural tradition that is just an excuse to get together (ie we walked through a wicked thick cloud of pot smoke and Heather got a shot of a kid rolling his joint, yay Spain).

Nevertheless it was extremely interesting and fascinating. Everyone is dressed up and out walking around.

Some of the most classic pictures from the week. You see, Heather is what the Spanish would call sin verguenza or completely shamless, and she would hurl her life into peril and sacrifice herself for the "ultimate photo"... blatantly speaking to Spainards in her charming Southern accented English. "Can I take a photo?" But, I'm completely indebted to her as it did leave me with some priceless pictures I never would have otherwise. My FAVORITE picture is the one of Heather squeeged between these two hooded white kids. But then, this other one where she dragged me and Beth into the photo with her is quite classic as well. Read our expressions:
Beth: "I am so embarrassed, why do I have to stand directly next to him... aaaaaawkward and creepy."
Heather: "Yesssssss... sweet photo op!"
Julie Ann: "Sweet Moses, but at least I have my ice cream with the hooded dude, even if it is cold enough for me to be in a scarf."
And poor Dara had to take that picture... Dara is so much more chill... I had to be the one to take photos of her... note the traditionally dressed woman in the background to the left with the black comb and vail in her hair like a maja from the yesteryear... that was on "Holy Thursday" and maaaaany women were dressed as such, no idea why.

So all in all... Semana Santa was an enjoyable festivity. I want my friends back. Have this be an encouragment and an advertisement for all to come visit. :)

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

i'm glad the photo of me that made it on your blog is of me with the BEER!! i look like an alcoholic or something...haha. wish i was still there :( love you!

3:56 AM  

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